plastering

Some DIYer I turned out to be

During the heating season -- from late October until April -- I run a large humidifier 24/7. It's something I've done since music school. I had a 115 year-old Czech flat-back double bass that didn't like steam heat. By the time spring arrived I would have spent anywhere from $300 to $1000 at the luthier getting glue joints fixed, new cracks repaired, the sound post reset and so forth. Running a big honkin' humidifier was a lot cheaper and the bonus was learning that it was healthier for people too.

The humidifier, a six gallon Bemis, is located in the kitchen extension where it's close to water and where the noise is less annoying. When I walked into the kitchen to feed the dogs yesterday morning, something was missing. It was quiet. Normally that means the humidifier tanks need refilling, but I'd just done that the night before.

I checked the unit and there was no sign of power. I pulled out the heavy breakfront to get to the wall outlet, forgetting about large bottle of VSOP on top. It shattered on the floor, showering my pants in brandy. After a quick clean-up and clothing change, I checked the plug with the first thing I found: my cordless phone charger. There was no juice at the outlet. Or at the next one either. Hmmm, a blown breaker?

The basement breaker panel looked fine. Nothing tripped. Aha! That circuit is downstream of a GFI exterior outlet on the back porch. Sure enough, it had tripped. I reset the GFI and the circuit, and humidifier, popped back to life. I climbed the stairs to my office/mushroom cave, self-satisfied that I'd fixed a problem that would have driven a lesser man to call an electrician.

An hour later, I went back to the kitchen for a coffee refill and saw that the humidifier was dead again. Drat, that probably means a bad GFI. Oh well, I can handle that too. But when I reset the GFI this time, the circuit was still down. Huh?


The Mystery of the Ducts To Nowhere

(Or "Why A Duct?", with a tip o' the hat to the Marx Bros)

This house has ancient, single-pipe steam heating. From what I've been able to determine from digging in these walls over the past seven years is that it's always had steam heating. Nothing interesting there.

What's baffling is why the house also has ancient metal air ducting buried inside the walls. I discovered this shortly after I moved here when I ripped down the basement ceiling and found three vertical ducts to nowhere. Over the past hundred years, various plumbers and electricians had used them for service pulls. So did I when I ran 3/4" copper to the second floor bath, the central vac piping and various electrical branches from the basement panel.



I moved the renovation activity into the upstairs hall two weeks ago. After ripping off an old baseboard for replacement, you can see one of those ducts here.



Here's a closer look. The ducts are a fairly heavy gauge steel wrapped in another layer of corrugated steel, which functions as plaster lathing. It's real nasty to work with. It takes quite a bit of effort to knock a hole in this stuff. Because the ducts aren't anchored to anything, you can't use a saw on them. They just flap around, loosening the surrounding plaster. And after you succeed with tin snips you're left with metal edges as lethal as a machete blade.

There used to be an old baseboard outlet here. I hate baseboard outlets. They're inconvenient and a trip hazard when anything is plugged into them. My intent was to move that outlet up the wall. But once I removed the baseboard and saw the ducting (which I'd forgotten about) I decided I liked my unlacerated flesh more than I hated baseboard outlets.


Wall Prep Tips

I've got a lunch meeting with a prospective client today so I'll dive into the first priming of the master bedroom project this evening. This gives me an opportunity for some virtual renovation this morning: reading the Houseblogs sites and posting to my own.

Bill over at Enon Hall posted a cool Top Ten list. There are some good tips there. Ya'll should check it out (although my lumberyard likes to see double-spaced, typed materials lists with product codes and a letterhead, preferably faxed in advance).

Since I'm in "wall prep mode" I thought I'd post my own Top Ten in that area. So without further ado...


Forging ahead...

At last, some visible progress on the master bedroom renovation. For most of last week and the weekend I repaired plaster, which isn't very exciting photography. If you can see something it means you didn't do a very good job of it.

Four years ago, I replaced a termite-ridden center support beam in the basement with a steel I-beam. As careful as we were, there was enough settling that the upstairs plaster took a minor beating. Because these were stress fractures that went all the way through the brown coat, I had to dig out each crack with an old beer can opener and embed mesh tape over it. There's probably a hundred feet of it buried in these walls. I wonder what plasterers will use when the last of the old fashioned beer can openers disappears into history? It's perfect for this job.


Where's the progress?

You DIYers know what I'm talking about. A friend comes by to check out your latest completed project and goes "ooh! ahh!" over the paint color and asks where you got your terrific door knobs. You modestly thank him for the compliment. But, deep inside, you feel like Michelangelo after hearing, "Hey, nice paint colors. Where'd you get the cool frame?"

You shed blood on this room for... what?... three months and that's all he can see? Paint color and door knobs?! Is he blind or just clueless? He doesn't see the five hundred feet of mesh tape you skillfully buried in the wall to fix the broken plaster and the hours you spent scraping and spitting out paint chips? He doesn't appreciate the week you spent getting the squeaks out of the floor or the rerouted heating or the four independent lighting circuits or the door it took two days to get plumb and level or the brazillion trips you made up and down a ladder till your quads burned, the scraped knuckles, the twisted elbow and the bottle of Costco ibuprofen you've swallowed over the past 12 weeks just to dull the pain enough to get some sleep?

Perhaps that's why we blog. It documents proof that we did more than just roll on some paint and screw on a door knob.

I'm at that stage of the master bedroom rehab now. I've worked on it for the past five days. Last night I broke out the Canon to take took a "progress shot". Then I compared it with one taken last Saturday. I was crushed. The only thing that looked different is that I had more tools in the room. I know I did something in that room because I've got a blood blister on my thumb, "plaster hair" and a pile of filthy clothes that says I did.


You don't know until you try

The guys at Kamco were right. Quarter-inch drywall can curve to a minimum five-foot radius, dry. Wetting/scoring it can reduce that to as little as three feet "if you're really good!" The problem is, the radius of this corner is about ten inches. That's even too shallow for High Flex, which I could only get by special order and only in palette quantities anyway.

The story of this closet starts here. I could have saved myself a lot of problems if I'd just built a square corner on that closet. But I really wanted a radius here to match two other curved walls in the room as well as one in the hallway leading into the bedroom. I haven't even started thinking about how I'm gonna do the 9" red oak baseboard moulding around that curve. I imagine there will be a few blog entries about that ordeal too.


Skim Coat (almost) Like a Pro

Most people seem to like the flat, clean effect of drywall. Drywall is cheap, goes up easily and doesn't take much acquired skill to learn how to tape, mud and finish the joints. Even drywall repairs are relatively painless. So what's not to like?

Maybe I'm just weird (well, there's probably no contesting that regardless) but I like plaster. I like the way side lights create shadows and textures over the natural unevenness of a plaster wall, giving it density and bulk.

The problem is that I absolutely suck at plastering. My plaster work usually looks more like adobe, with half of it winding up on the floor and the mix setting up before I can work it. What I used to do is use plaster to get the wall in the ballpark then add a finish coat of joint compound with a 12" blade, followed by copious sanding that left me, the room, and much of the rest of the house, looking like the set of The Polar Express. It was a tedious, laborious and dirty business.

Then I ran across a tool with the dubious name of Magic Trowel.

I watched a demonstration at a woodworkers show and it looked so easy. But I've been burned enough times by affable salesmen selling miracle niche market tools to know that my mileage may, and probably will, vary. I've got a box full of Magic Planes and Magic Coping Tools and Magic Drill Bit Sharpeners to attest to that.

But I knew enough about joint compound to know that the concept seemed solid: a wide squeegee blade instead of a hard-edged metal taping knife. It was worth a shot.

The verdict? It works very well! After extensive plaster repairs to my living room I skimcoated it in about two hours. Even better, I only had to give the 200+ feet of mesh tape I used to fix cracks just one coat of compound before skimming the wall with Magic Trowel. The compound lays down so thick that it sinks the exposed tape. It didn't completely eliminate the need for, or the mess of, dry sanding but it reduced it considerably.

So why not just use a garden-variety squeegee? Magic Trowel is different than a squeegee normally used for cleaning windows. The long flexible blade floats over the surface pushing down on high spots. The 30-degree angle on the outside edges reduces tension on the ends of the blade leaving minimal trowel lines. Those that it does create are easily sanded off later.

There's a technique to using Magic Trowel but you pick it up pretty quickly. Texmaster has a how-to video on their web site demonstrating the technique (Windows Media Player only).

Use long strokes, top to bottom. Don't obsess on small divots or gouges. Those can be easily patched later. Instead, work quickly and use consistent pressure.

The video advises adding 8 ounces of water to a five-gallon bucket of joint compound to thin it out for rolling. I found that mixture to be a little too thick. In fact, I experimented with the mix by replacing one gallon of compound with a slightly soupy mix of plaster of paris and a couple of ounces of white vinegar to retard the plaster from hardening. It worked but you have to work even faster.

(Click on the photo to expand it). You'll need a painter's paddle and a torquey, variable speed corded drill to mix the compound. Warning: I damaged the collet on and practically overheated my Milwaukee drill mixing joint compound. Use a sustantial drill for this, not a cordless, not a Target red dot special! And do it at slow speed unless you want to be scraping compound off the dog.

If you do this over an existing old plaster wall, make sure it's clean and degreased. If the wall has anything other than a flat paint on it, scuff it up with an orbital sander. Wash it down with TSP twice and rinse it down thoroughly. I lay down a plastic sheet and cover that with a cotton dropcloth.

Work on vertical sections and don't let the edges dry out. As I said before, don't obsess with making the wall perfect at the expense of letting the compound get crusty. You can always fix it later. Also, keep your compound, the blade and the wall clean! Any foreign matter will create long gouges in the finish.

After the wall has dried, dry sand any high lumps, fill any gouges with a taping knife and give it at least two coats of primer/sealer. The compound will really suck up the paint so you need to seal it well before you roll your finish coat.

I had concerns about the softness of joint compound as a skim coating material but after four years in my entry hallway the finish still looks like the day I primed it. My guess is that the primer sucks into the compound, making it more durable. But that's just a guess.

Just keep your eyes on this tool because once your fellow tyromaniacs see the results they're going to want to borrow your Magic Trowel. Mine has done five houses. Unfortunately, they were casualities in one those houses, which had a bad basement fire. Gotta order some new ones.



Guest Room

Renovation By The Numbers


A few House page viewers asked me to walk them through a typical room renovation. This room already had a lightweight renovation when I moved in and needed to set up my office quickly. Now it will undergo a complete refab for a guest room.

Generally speaking, I have a few fixed strategies for renovation, at least in this house:

  • Preserve the plaster whenever possible. Some people do drywall rehabs, then spend a bundle paying someone to skim coat blue board so it looks like plaster. Plaster is superior to drywall for sound and durability so it makes sense to save it.
  • Replace old electrical with new BX and boxes. Plastic sheathed cable (NMS)is legal here but I don't like pulling it through nail-strewn walls. NMS also means another wire hookup inside the box.
  • New floors.
  • New woodwork. See www.interiordoors.com for great deals on architectural hardwood doors.

Click on any picture to expand it

Inspection day. Evidentally, the chapel. After a week of rudimentary renovation, it became my office.


Step One: Demolition

Before I decide what I want to do with the room, I take a prybar, hammer and Sawzall and lay waste to everything that's not going to be rehabilitated. Then you have an empty canvas with which to visualize the new space.

This should of course be done on an empty room with the doors closed and sealed around the threshhold. Otherwise you'll find plaster dust in your corn flakes the next morning. It helps to use a powerful window fan set to exhaust mode to create negative pressure inside the room. While Doc Karen complains that I'm too casual about this, wear a dust mask! The ancient grime, mold spores and possible asbestos dust waiting for you behind mouldings, especially over door and window headers, is really nasty stuff. Vacuum often and vent its exhaust out an open window.

Step Two: Wall Preparation

Scrape all the walls and ceiling, and I mean every square inch of it. I use a thin-bladed 2-inch scraper for this because a wider blade will skip over slight depressions in the wall. It's tedious work but the results will pay off next year when your paint isn't falling off.

Use a side light to look for raised or uneven areas in the plaster which could indicate finish coat separation from the base coat.

Use the pointy edge of a five-in-one painter's tool (or an old-style beer can opener) to dig a small trench in plaster cracks. This will increase the bonding area for your repair. It will also uncover possibly larger cracks in the base plaster, which will need to be repaired first. Remove all loose debris.

If you encounter large sections of loose plaster you have two options: tear it out and replaster or use plaster washers to pull it back in contact with the wood lathing. I only do the latter if demolition might endanger plaster details like corner mouldings or medallions. Plaster washer repairs often lead to more cracks later, especially on ceilings.


Like those walls? This is what happens to five year-old white primer. It's also the answer to the question, "why can't I use primer for finish paint?" The old radiator was removed and relocated to a cast iron baseboard unit under the windows. I completed demolition and spent the next week patching cracks and loose plaster. The ceiling was a mess due to a roof leak, thanks to a botched satellite dish installation.
The next job was routing the electrical. The wall outlets are being fed by a new circuit, which I pulled upstairs a couple of years ago. The old aluminum BX in the ceiling fixture was disabled, which required knocking a fair-sized hole in the plaster. A new medallion covered up that mess. The walls were too damaged to repair conventionally so I taped and skimcoated them.
Installation of the "window seat". This was built in my shop as three cabinets and screwed together. The tops, which slide off to give access to the radiator, were a bitch to get right. Constructing the crown moulding for the window pediments. You know, I've done so much of this style of trim over the past five years that I've got it down to a formula now. That has its good and bad points.
I ran into an issue with the wiring, or rather how to hide it. I had BX for electrical, phone and DSL wiring for the office, the main feed for my satellite dish, the second floor security alarm wiring and two coax cables for the room itself which I had to somehow disguise along this wall. But the wall is plaster over brick. What to do? I decided to build a bump-out with 2x3s and drywall and cap it with an oak shelf. Trim work completed. The room is starting to get a bit crowded. Here's a construction tip: keep your work space clean. My productivity seems to drop at the inverse square to the number of trip hazards in the room.
The ceiling fan was installed. The floor was roughed up for the cement leveler in preparation for the new floor. Fifteen pound builders felt is stapled to the floor to reduce squeaks.
A Mannington engineered oak floor is laid down using a Spotnails stapler and 1-3/8" staples. The floor and shoe moulding is done and the wallpaper is up. The wallpaper was problematic, or rather the original stuff was. I picked up the latter at a seedy wallpaper store in Boro Park, hung it that night and three hours later it was peeling off the walls. The pool of rain water inside the store should have been a free clue to the quality of what I was buying. The stuff in the photo is Home Depot standard issue and it went up, and stayed up, without a hitch.




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