A couple of weeks ago one of my stained glass designs was picked for the Dragonfly Design of the Month, May 2009.
I don't consider myself an artist in the visual sense so I was kind of embarrassed by the attention and decided to keep it to myself. But I wanted to publicly thank Michael Wilk, president of Dragonfly, for the honor. So here it is. I know I probably wasn't the most cooperative candidate he's dealt with.
I also wanted to give a plug to Michael's Glass Eye 2000 stained glass design software. Believe me, if it can make a graphically challenged person like me create a nice looking design, someone with real talent will be able to do amazing things with it.
One more announcement. I've been blogging for Old House Web for the past couple of months -- my first paid blogging gig! Unfortunately, I've been neglecting my own.
So I also wanted to apologize to readers of this blog for the lapses in posting here. I've been very busy with Childrens Health Fund the past couple of months and it's looking like it will get even busier as I've been assigned a new childhood nutrition project. Fortunately for the kids, I won't be teaching them my personal food groups (Cheetos, General Tsos, Diet Pepsi and margaritas) but building the software.
However, my next project really, really will be to start constructing some of these stained glass designs. Really.
stained glass
We have a winner
Submitted by Steve on Sun, 08/17/2008 - 11:45pm
Yesterday was a rough one for me. For those who keep up to date here (there are a few of you and I really appreciate it), you know why.
But today was a new day and, in a weird way, I figured I owed it to my buddy Chopper to get this place one step closer to completion. After all, this was his home too. So I returned (again) to the stained glass. While I have five stained glass projects ahead of me, at least the design of ONE of them is finally locked in. What did that take me? Sixteen months? I can't wait to post about the completion of this project, presuming blogs are still around in 2015.
A lot of the credit for settling on the design goes to the folks on Old House Web forums and to a couple of people on the forum at Brownstoner.com. I was reaching the point of cognitive overload, scratching my head about whether stained glass even worked for that cabinet. I was getting ready to slap a couple of sheets of plywood in those doors until one of the OHW users, probably tired of reading my bellyaching about it, took one of the designs and 'shopped it into a photo of that cabinet.
But today was a new day and, in a weird way, I figured I owed it to my buddy Chopper to get this place one step closer to completion. After all, this was his home too. So I returned (again) to the stained glass. While I have five stained glass projects ahead of me, at least the design of ONE of them is finally locked in. What did that take me? Sixteen months? I can't wait to post about the completion of this project, presuming blogs are still around in 2015.
A lot of the credit for settling on the design goes to the folks on Old House Web forums and to a couple of people on the forum at Brownstoner.com. I was reaching the point of cognitive overload, scratching my head about whether stained glass even worked for that cabinet. I was getting ready to slap a couple of sheets of plywood in those doors until one of the OHW users, probably tired of reading my bellyaching about it, took one of the designs and 'shopped it into a photo of that cabinet.
"George is gettin' frustrated...!"
Submitted by Steve on Sun, 08/10/2008 - 7:02pm
The saga continues on the stained glass design for the master bedroom bureau. I created two more designs (below) that look nice but seem inappropriate for this piece.
I'm beginning to think that stained glass in general is too heavy for this cabinet. I considered using cane instead except my cat would make short work of that. Trixie hops up on the window sill, opens the sock drawer and sleeps in there. Giving her a climbing wall would be a mistake.
Then I remembered something I've seen in old movies: wire glass. You see it a lot in Hollywood set depictions of judge's offices. It's like chicken wire safety glass except the wire is more decorative and usually made of brass. I've never actually seen this stuff in real life so I don't know if it's an actual product or something you sandwich between two panes of glass. All I know is that I spent a fruitless afternoon Googling for it. If you ever need to know about glass coat hangers or glass-impregnated wire, ask me.
Does anyone know what this stuff is called and, better, where I can find it?
I'm beginning to think that stained glass in general is too heavy for this cabinet. I considered using cane instead except my cat would make short work of that. Trixie hops up on the window sill, opens the sock drawer and sleeps in there. Giving her a climbing wall would be a mistake.
Then I remembered something I've seen in old movies: wire glass. You see it a lot in Hollywood set depictions of judge's offices. It's like chicken wire safety glass except the wire is more decorative and usually made of brass. I've never actually seen this stuff in real life so I don't know if it's an actual product or something you sandwich between two panes of glass. All I know is that I spent a fruitless afternoon Googling for it. If you ever need to know about glass coat hangers or glass-impregnated wire, ask me.
Does anyone know what this stuff is called and, better, where I can find it?
Returning to the stained glass saga...
Submitted by Steve on Sat, 08/09/2008 - 1:33pm
Let's see. I finished painting the back wall, the tomatoes are flourishing, I lost 20 pounds... I've managed to exhaust all my excuses for not starting another project. Rather, I'm returning to a project I said I was going to have done by now.
This marathon stained glass project breaks down to six sub-projects, or milestones in TechnoSpeak:
Up first, are the bureau panels. I'm not sure if I ever posted a pic of the completed bureau but that was another tail dragger. I think the finished doors sat against the wall for six months before I hung them. Yes, another fine example of HSC: Home Stretch Complacency.
Anyway, here it is, with my large cache of Nantucket and motorcycle teeshirts. Each stained glass panel is 11"x31". And here's what they'll look like, as designed in GlassEye 2000.
GlassEye is an amazing piece of software. I'm totally (like totally) sold on it. But one of the things it doesn't do is impart judgment on the part of the operator. My concern with this design is that it might be a little too detailed for such a relatively small area. This will be a lead came, not copper foil, job so at the very least I'm probably going to need to use a maximum of 3/16" face came. I hope Albert Stained Glass carries it. Shipping lead tends to get expensive.
Some of the cuts are way too tricky for a wheel glass cutter, even with a grinder. So I did what I always do to kick myself out of an HSC stupor. I bought a new tool.
It's a glass bandsaw, a Gryphon Omni-2 diamond wire saw. I've been wanting a glass bandsaw for a while, ever since I had to cut twelve small circles for another project. I spent an entire evening with a glass grinder doing those. YGlass.com had it on sale with a coupon for three replacement diamond blades so I bit.
The next step is acquiring the materials. Albert has a pretty decent stock of art glass on hand so I'm hoping I can find something to approximate these colors and textures. GlassEye has a large database of commercially available glass but I doubt that any local vendor carries more than a tiny subset of it.
Talk about it the Stained Glass Forum.
This marathon stained glass project breaks down to six sub-projects, or milestones in TechnoSpeak:
- Two door panels for the master BR bureau.
- Two window panels for the master BR hallway window.
- Two upper door panels for the LR home entertainment unit.
- Skylight over the staircase.
- Bathroom skylight.
- Three sealed light boxes for the back yard fence.
Up first, are the bureau panels. I'm not sure if I ever posted a pic of the completed bureau but that was another tail dragger. I think the finished doors sat against the wall for six months before I hung them. Yes, another fine example of HSC: Home Stretch Complacency.
Anyway, here it is, with my large cache of Nantucket and motorcycle teeshirts. Each stained glass panel is 11"x31". And here's what they'll look like, as designed in GlassEye 2000.
GlassEye is an amazing piece of software. I'm totally (like totally) sold on it. But one of the things it doesn't do is impart judgment on the part of the operator. My concern with this design is that it might be a little too detailed for such a relatively small area. This will be a lead came, not copper foil, job so at the very least I'm probably going to need to use a maximum of 3/16" face came. I hope Albert Stained Glass carries it. Shipping lead tends to get expensive.
Some of the cuts are way too tricky for a wheel glass cutter, even with a grinder. So I did what I always do to kick myself out of an HSC stupor. I bought a new tool.
It's a glass bandsaw, a Gryphon Omni-2 diamond wire saw. I've been wanting a glass bandsaw for a while, ever since I had to cut twelve small circles for another project. I spent an entire evening with a glass grinder doing those. YGlass.com had it on sale with a coupon for three replacement diamond blades so I bit.
The next step is acquiring the materials. Albert has a pretty decent stock of art glass on hand so I'm hoping I can find something to approximate these colors and textures. GlassEye has a large database of commercially available glass but I doubt that any local vendor carries more than a tiny subset of it.
Talk about it the Stained Glass Forum.
Designing Stained Glass
Submitted by Steve on Mon, 12/17/2007 - 2:59am
Rembrandt, I ain't. I can visualize things pretty well but there's a bridge out somewhere between my left and right brain. With woodworking, I usually wind up head jamming the fabrication. It works 90% of the time. The other 10% is handled by my hard-won skills in making dumb mistakes look like I meant to do that. But this ad hoc process doesn't work for stained glass construction, where you need to have a completed design and pieces cut before you start soldering things together.
My stained glass work to date has been pretty simple, angular and, yes, left brained. But for the new projects here I wanted something a bit more artistic. So I began the hunt for stained glass design software and settled on Glass Eye 2000 from Dragonfly. It ain't cheap but it's not like stained glass people are a huge market. Nevertheless, it's a high quality product and the best design software I could find.
This is a window panel I designed in GE2k in about three hours.
GE2k is primarily a vector paint program. "Knots" determine ends of lines and also the arc points within lines. Making an arc is just a matter of grabbing a midline knot and dragging it where you want it. If you need a more complex arc, add more knots to the line. This might sound kind of crude but it's surprisingly flexible and, moreover, it makes resizing a design extremely accurate.
There are several ways to begin a design in GE2k. The easiest is to just Browse Designs and steal one. GE2k comes with over four hundred completed designs and bevels which you can use as-is or modify to suit. Dragonfly also sells packages of optional patterns ranging from Edwardian designs to cute li'l animals.
A very powerful feature in GE2k is AutoTrace. What you do is import a GIF or JPEG as a "background" and the software will create the outlines for you. This works pretty well for simple graphics, like a basic pencil sketch or a drawing from a coloring book. The tracing usually requires a little manual cleanup but the output looks surprisingly like a stained glass design.
You can also manually trace a drawing or a photo, like the artist did here. It's tedious but it lets you capture an incredible amount of detail, producing an almost photo-realistic stained glass piece. Basically, what you do is overlay lots and lots of knots on the photo and pull lines to match the contours of the picture.
A tool I've found indispensable for setting glass colors is ColorPic, built and marketed by a brilliant developer I worked with at Trafficmac, Nico Westerdale of Iconico. I can't imagine building anything relying on color without it. Nico has lots of free or inexpensive, super-valuable tools for web design on his site. It's a web developer's, or in this case stained glass designer's, toy box.
Anyway, this is a panel I designed to fit into the window frames I built last week. There's an article about that construction here. I'll be building two of these panels for the window from the master bedroom to the hallway. They're intended to bring light from the south-facing bedroom windows into an otherwise dark section of hallway while also providing privacy.
Here's an example of AutoTrace in action. I did this as an exercise to learn this aspect of the software. It took me about 45 minutes to complete the drawing, which I don't intend to actually build.
This is a sketch I found on the web; just a simple cartoonish Christmas tree. I imported it into GE2k using the Add Background command. It contains several lines which don't actually produce workable stained glass pieces. GE2k knows this and will tell you as much when you run the Suggest command (Ctrl-Q).
AutoTrace generated this template. Yup, it's got a lot of disconnected lines. Since the lines articulate borders for the glass pieces, they either need to be extended to meet the knots in other lines, or removed altogether. The tiny little bead-looking things you see on the lines are the knots. You can add/remove them or drag them to new locations to create curves and arcs.
Fifteen minutes of modification produced this. The Suggest command was really useful, telling me about disconnected knots on the pattern, pieces which were too small to fabricate, etc.
I quickly chose some colors and presto: a nearly complete stained glass design.
Clicking on another command automatically numbered all the pieces for me. When you print out the drawing you'll actually print two copies. One is the base template over which you fabricate the glass and the lead came (or copper foil). The other provides templates for actually cutting the glass. You cut out the paper pieces, fasten them to the glass with rubber cement, run a Sharpie around the profile and then cut the glass. Having those numbered pieces makes it easy to do all your cuts in one production run.
If I was going to actually construct this drawing I would almost certainly break up some of the long pieces and simplify the complex wavy lines to make glass cutting easier. Fortunately, that's easy to do.
There's much more to Glass Eye 2000 than this. One cool feature is Costing. The software comes with a large and extensible inventory of glass types, manufacturers and model numbers. You can assign square-foot prices to them, as well as to the lead stock. When you complete the design, Glass Eye will tell you how much the materials will cost to build it. You can even estimate your hours and use it to generate a formal bid for a customer. Pretty cool.
Talk about it the Stained Glass Forum.
My stained glass work to date has been pretty simple, angular and, yes, left brained. But for the new projects here I wanted something a bit more artistic. So I began the hunt for stained glass design software and settled on Glass Eye 2000 from Dragonfly. It ain't cheap but it's not like stained glass people are a huge market. Nevertheless, it's a high quality product and the best design software I could find.
This is a window panel I designed in GE2k in about three hours.
GE2k is primarily a vector paint program. "Knots" determine ends of lines and also the arc points within lines. Making an arc is just a matter of grabbing a midline knot and dragging it where you want it. If you need a more complex arc, add more knots to the line. This might sound kind of crude but it's surprisingly flexible and, moreover, it makes resizing a design extremely accurate.
There are several ways to begin a design in GE2k. The easiest is to just Browse Designs and steal one. GE2k comes with over four hundred completed designs and bevels which you can use as-is or modify to suit. Dragonfly also sells packages of optional patterns ranging from Edwardian designs to cute li'l animals.
A very powerful feature in GE2k is AutoTrace. What you do is import a GIF or JPEG as a "background" and the software will create the outlines for you. This works pretty well for simple graphics, like a basic pencil sketch or a drawing from a coloring book. The tracing usually requires a little manual cleanup but the output looks surprisingly like a stained glass design.
You can also manually trace a drawing or a photo, like the artist did here. It's tedious but it lets you capture an incredible amount of detail, producing an almost photo-realistic stained glass piece. Basically, what you do is overlay lots and lots of knots on the photo and pull lines to match the contours of the picture.
A tool I've found indispensable for setting glass colors is ColorPic, built and marketed by a brilliant developer I worked with at Trafficmac, Nico Westerdale of Iconico. I can't imagine building anything relying on color without it. Nico has lots of free or inexpensive, super-valuable tools for web design on his site. It's a web developer's, or in this case stained glass designer's, toy box.
Anyway, this is a panel I designed to fit into the window frames I built last week. There's an article about that construction here. I'll be building two of these panels for the window from the master bedroom to the hallway. They're intended to bring light from the south-facing bedroom windows into an otherwise dark section of hallway while also providing privacy.
Here's an example of AutoTrace in action. I did this as an exercise to learn this aspect of the software. It took me about 45 minutes to complete the drawing, which I don't intend to actually build.
This is a sketch I found on the web; just a simple cartoonish Christmas tree. I imported it into GE2k using the Add Background command. It contains several lines which don't actually produce workable stained glass pieces. GE2k knows this and will tell you as much when you run the Suggest command (Ctrl-Q).
AutoTrace generated this template. Yup, it's got a lot of disconnected lines. Since the lines articulate borders for the glass pieces, they either need to be extended to meet the knots in other lines, or removed altogether. The tiny little bead-looking things you see on the lines are the knots. You can add/remove them or drag them to new locations to create curves and arcs.
Fifteen minutes of modification produced this. The Suggest command was really useful, telling me about disconnected knots on the pattern, pieces which were too small to fabricate, etc.
I quickly chose some colors and presto: a nearly complete stained glass design.
Clicking on another command automatically numbered all the pieces for me. When you print out the drawing you'll actually print two copies. One is the base template over which you fabricate the glass and the lead came (or copper foil). The other provides templates for actually cutting the glass. You cut out the paper pieces, fasten them to the glass with rubber cement, run a Sharpie around the profile and then cut the glass. Having those numbered pieces makes it easy to do all your cuts in one production run.
If I was going to actually construct this drawing I would almost certainly break up some of the long pieces and simplify the complex wavy lines to make glass cutting easier. Fortunately, that's easy to do.
There's much more to Glass Eye 2000 than this. One cool feature is Costing. The software comes with a large and extensible inventory of glass types, manufacturers and model numbers. You can assign square-foot prices to them, as well as to the lead stock. When you complete the design, Glass Eye will tell you how much the materials will cost to build it. You can even estimate your hours and use it to generate a formal bid for a customer. Pretty cool.
Talk about it the Stained Glass Forum.
New Stained Glass Projects
Submitted by Steve on Tue, 12/11/2007 - 11:09pm
I have several stained glass tasks in the queue here. Some, like the upper cabinet doors in the living room media cabinet, have been on hold since 2003. Others, like the funky stairway skylight, I've wanted to replace since the day I first saw the place.
While stained glass construction is fairly mechanical and basically just woodworking joinery using glass and lead came, the design, templating and piecing out can be very time consuming. Most of the glass I've done here is fairly simple and angular to match the existing stained glass. But I wanted something a bit more ornamental for these new projects.
The delay is mostly because I suck at drawing. I can muddle my way through Photoshop if I have to and I've even built a few nice web page banners using "creative appropriation" of assets conceived by others. Change a few lines, overlay a mask or two, morph a few elements and, poof, it's mine. Derivative art.
While stained glass construction is fairly mechanical and basically just woodworking joinery using glass and lead came, the design, templating and piecing out can be very time consuming. Most of the glass I've done here is fairly simple and angular to match the existing stained glass. But I wanted something a bit more ornamental for these new projects.
The delay is mostly because I suck at drawing. I can muddle my way through Photoshop if I have to and I've even built a few nice web page banners using "creative appropriation" of assets conceived by others. Change a few lines, overlay a mask or two, morph a few elements and, poof, it's mine. Derivative art.
DIY Stained Glass
Submitted by Steve on Sat, 10/07/2006 - 2:10pm
I've only got ho-hum jobs on my plate this weekend: insulation, plaster fixes, running BX... nothing worth blogging about. But I was thinking forward to what I'm going to need to finish off this bedroom renovation (in about three months).
Since the renovation involved merging two bedrooms, I now have two entrances into it. The problem is that the doorway I want to get rid of gives the upstairs hallway much of its summer light and is also needed for cross ventilation. After mulling it over, I decided to replace it with a knee wall topped by a pair of stained glass windows.
Four years ago, when I was deep into my living room reno, I had to replace a pair of cheapo french doors to the deck over the garage. I built the red oak doors in my shop and started pricing store-bought stained glass panels. Of course, nothing came in the sizes I needed and to commission those four panels was going to cost me well over a thousand bucks. So I sez to myself (I sez), "how hard can it be?" Stained glass fabrication looked like simple woodworking joinery to me.
Since the renovation involved merging two bedrooms, I now have two entrances into it. The problem is that the doorway I want to get rid of gives the upstairs hallway much of its summer light and is also needed for cross ventilation. After mulling it over, I decided to replace it with a knee wall topped by a pair of stained glass windows.
Four years ago, when I was deep into my living room reno, I had to replace a pair of cheapo french doors to the deck over the garage. I built the red oak doors in my shop and started pricing store-bought stained glass panels. Of course, nothing came in the sizes I needed and to commission those four panels was going to cost me well over a thousand bucks. So I sez to myself (I sez), "how hard can it be?" Stained glass fabrication looked like simple woodworking joinery to me.
Miscellaneous Before/After Shots
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| Inspection day. The plaster was being held together by gobs of a weird enamel drip paint. The stairway was covered in cheap latex. There had been a flood in this house -- a toilet which overflowed for three days, I’m told -- so the old parquet floors popped. There was only one electrical outlet in this section of the house. |
Three years later. There's about 200 feet of mesh tape in the walls and lots of new plaster.
All of the walls in this shot were skimcoated using a nifty device I found on the web, Magic Trowel. Several new electrical outlets were added along with a central vac port, visible at the lower right. Besides the staircase, which is about 50% renovation, all of the woodwork in this picture is new. The old stuff was beyond salvage.
For details about the stair renovation, see The Staircase. |
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| Evidentally, the chapel. |
Now, it's my home office. Actually, all that was done here was to refinish the floor, patch, prime and hang some shelves. I got this room to this state a week after I moved in.
Since this picture was taken the room has been renovated yet again. It's now my guest room. |
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| garage roof/living room deck | ||||
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| The original living room deck/garage roof. Besides bad leaks from a shoddy concrete job, which actually sloped away from the drain, the low railing was a trip hazard and code violation. That's probably why the door from the living room was siliconed shut. I recycled that railing for the backyard garden. | The original roof was removed, new steel and lintels were added and eight inches of concrete was poured with a rubber membrane in the sandwich. Frank O'Donnell was the GC for this work; it was definitely not a one man job. The brick was matched to the existing house and laid by Jim Lally of Galway Bay Masonry. I did the slate. | |||
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| There were only two electrical outlets in the room, the parquet floors were gone, the ceiling fan was hanging on two drywall screws sunk into plaster lathe (scarey!) and the woodwork was too destroyed to renovate. The oak pocket doors were gone, replaced by a cheezy house trailer sliding divider. Go figure. Sometimes I think that people should have to be licensed to own a house over 30 years old. |
After an unsuccessful attempt at stripping, I rebuilt the bay window unit with red oak. To replace the old panels beneath the windows, I built open cabinets with low voltage lighting. They may get stained glass doors later. I also replaced the old radiator with a cast-iron baseboard unit and built a red oak enclosure for it, mostly out of leftover flooring.
There's another 200-300 feet of plaster mesh tape and plaster washers sunk in these walls and in the water-damaged ceiling. Cutting the angles on the crown moulding over the windows was the trickiest part. As I recall, they were 23-1/2 and 22 degrees, respectively. I made a lot of practice cuts before slicing into the eight-buck/foot crown moulding. |
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Inspection day.
This was a weird little room. It had a false wall built from street salvaged material and spray foam insulation, the latter of which was a bitch to remove. A neighbor told me that the resident of this room was deathly afraid of mice, although I've seen no evidence of rodents in the house. |
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After renovation. This was actually my second office, having moved it from the larger bedroom next door. There's nothing special to it. I replaced all the trim and laid down a Mannington engineered oak floor.
Excuse the weird camera lighting. I'm still struggling to learn my new Canon Digital Rebel. |
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| Joyce Lariviere did this stripping too but there's a lot of new work here. The challenge was trying to make the new blend in with the old. The staircase balisters, newel post caps, casements around the living room entrance and crown mouldings are all new, as are the wrought iron exterior doors. The mudroom entrance floor will get a marble medallion. | The new herringbone red oak floors are down with one coat of poly to go. Before that happens though I have to build a couple of china cabinets, which will go on either side of the doorway, and do the trim. I'm not exactly sure at this point what I want for this room. The original house had oak plate rail and decorative pressboard inside rail/stile paneling and gingerbread over the doorway. It was pretty nice. I may try to recreate that later. | |||
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| When I vacated my loft, I decided to leave most of my furniture behind. This was all the living room furniture I took: a 15 year-old TV and a dolly. | Okay, the sequences are confusing but I lied on the Dining Room page. I decided I needed one last built-in after all: a media center. This was after coming to the realization that my original idea to make one of those dining room cabinets a media center was dumb, if only because it was in the wrong room for a home theatre system. So it was back to the shop to build this. I still need to construct the glass door panels. | |||
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That entertainment center was a troublesome piece to build. For one thing, it was too large to make it out of my basement shop's door. It's six-sided and I could only construct the back three sides in the shop. It was carried upstairs and constructed in place. I thought that this was going to be my first major disaster.
My recording studio construction background came in handy here. I didn't want speakers cluttering the small living room but I also wanted something with a hefty midrange you can only get from a large driver. So I bought a pair of Polk in-walls and pulled Monster cable across the basement ceiling and up inside the walls. You can see one of the in-walls next to the dining room entrance. A Polk subwoofer sits on top of the cabinet (I have to find a way to hide that better) and there's a center channel speaker inside the cabinet, everything driven by a Denon seven-channel receiver. The dining room also got a pair of slaves (Polk, of course). I have to say the system sounds freakin' amazing! Finally, paint and furnishings! The green paint looks a little, I dunno, electric in this shot. It's another cheap digital camera trick. I built the coffee table and end table too, using some real nice quarter-sawn oak I found in the Bronx. The former has a hidden tray in front to stash the various remotes. One problem: Chopper is already starting to tear apart those tapestry sofas. |
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entry floor |
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The entryway/foyer floor was the final first-floor eyesore so I was anxious to get this out of the way. The problem was cost. I wanted a marble medallion but I couldn't find anything decent for less than five-hundred bucks. Then I decided to check the web, where I found an eBay store that specializes in them. This cost $139 so I grabbed it and finished off the field with green tumbled marble and ivory marble mosaics.
But before I did that I had to replace the concrete subfloor, which was crumbling due to a badly-placed air valve in the basement that was blowing super-heated steam underneath. I relocated it above the floor (you can see it in the upper left corner). A wet saw is mandatory for stone tile and cuts like this. |
View from the living room. From a distance it looks like the presidential seal. The key to tile applications like this is lots and lots of layout. I used up half a pencil drawing quadrants, lines and circles on the rough concrete. I also made a masonite template of the medallion for the tile cuts. Polished marble tile in the field would have prevented that wide, ragged grout line but that would have meant a dangerously slippery floor inside the main entrance. | |||
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stained glass construction
After getting some pricey estimates for the four stained glass panels needed for the
LR french doors I built, I decided to make them myself. I saved money even after buying all
the tools and materials I needed. Actually, the skills required to do a decent job for something
as simple as this aren't much different than those required for simple woodwork joinery.
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| The layout. The design incorporates elements in the existing living room transom and entryway sidelight windows. My table saw extension is the layout table. | Laying out stained glass is a bit like building a jig saw puzzle. Tight fits are important because stained glass is basically just a broken window repaired with lead cane. Gaps between cane joints or cane and glass will be weak points later. | |||
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| Two down, two to go. The panels are puttied and polished and have to lay flat for three days to cure. So do I occasionally. | The stained glass panels are installed in the living room french doors. Unfortunately, the ornate wrought iron doors behind it kind of obliterate the glass with the low winter sunlight beating on them. | |||





















